Showing posts with label Serbia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Serbia. Show all posts

24.3.14

Our House Hunter's International Episode (Serbia -> Belgium)

Hello blog readers (and family and friends)!
Chris and I hope that you are doing well and thoroughly enjoying 2014! We have been quiet (on our little blog/journal) for a while because life has gotten quite busy. Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining about that at all! In fact, I find that I feel incredible when I am really busy (I'm not speaking for Chris here - just for myself). Maybe I like being busy because I feel ultra productive? Maybe I get more done when I have a strict schedule to follow? Or maybe I am just wired to thrive under a little bit of pressure. In any case, a lot of people have asked if we would ever post our House Hunters International episode online, and after much ado, we finally got around to posting it! 

For those of you who are new here, Chris and I were filmed in April and May of 2013 for House Hunters International. HGTV wanted to document our move from Subotica, Serbia to Belgium, and even though we had already been living in Belgium for a good seven months before filming even started, they wanted to 're-create' our house hunting experience. We agreed to be filmed, and they asked if we could add a _touch_ of drama to our episode. In reality, our house hunting experience was not complicated at all, but for TV, we gave them some of the drama and conflict that they wanted. While Chris and I really loved filming part of our story abroad, this experience made us realize that most things on TV are slightly slanted and embellished. 

So if you are interested, here's our HHI episode! It is fun to have a 20-minute video of a piece of our journey together. One day we can show our children this episode when they want to see where we used to live around the world! 

Feel free to post your thoughts after you watch this, but be nice please! This is a positive space, and I won't post rude or degrading comments. (Why do people even post mean things about people they have never met? Unfortunately it happens a lot)



7.2.14

When Change is Exciting and Terrifying all at the Same Time


July 2013 - Oh, you sneaky little month, you! I had no idea how drastically our lives would change when you rolled around! 

After a year in Belgium, Chris and I felt 'normal,' and settled, and maybe even a little bit 'local'. We had a great group of friends in Roeselare and in Bruges, we spoke enough Dutch to understand what was happening around us (and when people were talking about us), I had two jobs, and we were celebrating 4 blissful years of marriage by departing on a whirlwind tour through the Mediterranean. For the first time in a long time, I was ready to "be," (I know shocker, eh, Mom?!) and simply enjoy the life that we had worked so hard to establish.


Stay Still - Relax - Enjoy the Season - Rest - Dig Deeper - Invest More - Plant Roots . . .

Who am I kidding?! We signed up for an adventure, and we have gotten more than we could have ever anticipated! It's been a beautiful and terrifying journey that has stretched us and pushed us closer together as a couple. We have learned to rely on each other for just about everything (he is great with directions, and I am not afraid to make linguistic mistakes so I am the mouthpiece when we travel), and through the joy and the tears, we would never rewrite any part of our story. The journey has not been what we expected, but we have been blessed every step of the way. 

Two and a half years ago, we moved to Subotica, Serbia and expected to stay rooted there for three years. We dug in, we made life-long friends, we experienced the beautiful Serbian culture, and we simply fell in love with the country. A year later, Chris' company moved us to Roeselare, Belgium, and while we were excited, we mourned leaving our beautiful Serbian family. Ghhhaa! Moving can be such a wild mix of emotions! Luckily, we loved our new city; I was almost immediately befriended by Niekie, the owner of a darling cafe called the MokkaBar, and Chris met the man of the town, PJ. Niekie and PJ invited us into their lives and introduced us to their friends. We can never express what a difference they made in our experience. I believe that it takes about a year to truly feel comfortable in a new culture. By July 2013, we had lived in Belgium for a year, so naturally, we had gone too long without a major change. 

28.10.13

Westvleteren Trappist Brewery Belgium

Pic found here.
Summer 2013 has come and gone, and I find myself with an ever growing list of adventures and experiences to blog/journal about. I have been so caught up in the moments that I've forgotten to properly documented the memories. The end of summer also marked another milestone in this grand little adventure that was supposed to take the McCoy family from Kentucky to Serbia and back again in three years time. Isn't it funny how life never really seems to go as planned?! Our international journey has not followed anyone's predictions, but we sort of like it that way. Chris and I have been living and working overseas for two years and four months; and in that time we moved from Kentucky to Subotica, Serbia (as planned), and then from Serbia to Roeselare, Belgium (not planned, but welcomed), and now we find ourselves in Regensburg, Germany. . . . absolutely not planned, but we figured we had moved before, and we could do it again!

What's one more move to shake things up a bit? 

Chris and I have been officially living in Regensburg, Germany for about three weeks, and everything is still so new. Once we feel a little more settled and 'normal,' I plan to document the process of our most recent move. In the meantime though, there are so many other things that I need to catch up on! 

First things first - Saint Sixtus of Westvleteren Brewery in Belgium

While living in Belgium, Chris and I were lucky to live 40 minutes away from one of the most famous breweries in the world. For beer enthusiasts, the mere mention of Saint Sixtus of Westvleteren makes you salivate. For everyone else, don't worry, I'll fill ya in on some of the basic details. 

22.5.13

House Hunter's International - Part 1


A couple of weeks ago, Chris and I finally made our way back to Serbia! After a year abroad, Subotica, Serbia had become our first European "home," and the sleepy city had found a way into the repertoire of our story. Our time in Serbia changed us so much that it is hard to put the lessons into meaningful words and sentences. I know that we will always remember our time in Serbia with fondness and deep gratitude. Over one too many cups of coffee, our group of friends said goodbye to us by focusing on the memories we had created in Subotica. The year had been full of picnics on Lake Palic, themed dinner parties, football and Frisbee games, sunny bike rides, family Slavas, and cultural home-cooked dinners. When Chris and I moved to Belgium in September of 2012, we promised our Serbian family that we would come back to visit as often as work and money allowed.

The truth is, the first six months in Belgium passed quickly. Transitioning into life in Belgium took longer than I had initially expected, and Chris' job proved very busy. I still feel like I am in a state of transition here, but I'm slowly finding my place and purpose in this new world. Getting back to Serbia was like a breath of fresh air - it felt like I was going home and waiting anxiously at familiar coffee shops for friendly arms to wrap me in a warm embrace. I remembered first stepping foot on the Korzo (main walking street) in Subotica, every face was the face of a stranger and every coffee shop was unfamiliar and new. What a difference one year in a new world can make, and how easily we can adapt if we allow ourselves to live openly and transparently. 

20.3.13

Our First Serbian Visitors!

Marko and Lela on the shopping street in Roeselare, Belgium. 
Remember Marko and Lela from Subotica, Serbia? They were our first friends in Serbia and they sort of adopted us into their big group of friends. Looking back on our year in Serbia, I don't remember feeling seriously homesick (except for when my first little nephew was born), and I know that Marko, Lela, and the community that they invited us into, were the reason we so easily adapted to our first home abroad. Chris and I truly feel that we have a grasp on the history and culture of Serbia because we were treated almost as locals for an entire year. Six months ago, we left Serbia, and through tear-filled goodbyes, Marko and Lela promised that they would come visit once we settled into our new home in Belgium . . . 

Well, they came through on their promise! We had Marko and Lela to ourselves for a whole five days! Chris and I were so excited to simply just be with them again and to share bits and pieces of our new adventure with them. Of course we made them sample all sorts of chocolates, cakes, waffles, frites (fries), and specialty Belgian beers. We took them to our favorite restaurants and cafes in Roeselare, and I will include those pictures in the next blog. 

3.7.12

Our Life in Serbia

During our past year(ish) in Serbia, Chris and I went from being a couple foreign strangers to feeling like we belonged. We've made loads of friends, participated in a cultural parade, been invited to traditional Serbian meals, had a car accident, saw a local celebrity in concert, and learned so much about Subotica, Serbia. We know most of the servers at local cafes and restaurants and the initial anxiety we felt over not knowing the language has faded. While we are nowhere near fluent (or even conversational) in Serbian, we can understand most everything, and we've become pantomime pros! We have learned to just laugh through the language barrier blunders - because what else can you do?!

Our Serbian expat experience is unique in so many ways. It is a combination of the company that sent us, the friends that have embraced us, the places we frequent, the establishments we steer clear of, and our personal travel style. No one will ever walk the same path that Chris and I have, but there are a few things that we have learned that may be helpful to anyone planning a move to Serbia. 

Driving in Serbia - At least from our experience, just about anything can happen while you're behind the wheel. You have to be alert and aware every single minute! You will encounter slow Yugos, farm animals, oblivious bikers, broken down vehicles and people running across the road in unmarked areas. I was so anxious the first time I drove the car alone, but my racing heart has calmed down a bit. It is also a law that you must always drive with your lights on and you cannot hold a cell phone to your ear while driving. 

Ebay/Amazon/Pay Pal . . . They just don't really work here. There are some Amazon vendors in Europe who will mail packages to Serbia, but it's still a bit tricky. You cannot use Pay Pall, but there are some things that you can order and have sent to Serbia. The package will arrive, but then you have to deal with customs and the Post Office. . . 

The Post Office in Serbia - Once a package arrives for you (from Amazon or from Mom), the Post Office will send you a notice to come collect your mail. Serbia will charge you about half of the value that is listed on your package before you can take your treasures home. I believe you get away without paying a customs tax if the value of your mail is under $20ish. But, if your mom sends you $100 worth of Kraft Mac and Cheese (can't get that in Subotica), you'll have to pay $50 at the Post Office before you can taste that cheesy goodness. I believe companies have a way around these crazy fees, but if you're in Serbia on your own, expect customs to take some of your hard earned money. It is also tricky to get your belongings into the country if you are making a move by yourself and not through a company. 

The way you pay a bill in Serbia. Bills are paid to either the post man (when he comes to your door), or at the bank. There is no stable online bill pay system. We often go to the bank and fill out a pink piece of paper with our bank routing number and the number of the account we are giving money to. I asked Chris what happens if you write one number wrong, and he just said, "well, then the wrong person gets your money and it takes a long time to sort out the problem." We have never had that happen, but it is such a curious system coming from a world where everything is paid online. 

Biking is for the young and old alike. I bought a bike in Serbia, and while it may not be the safest mode of transportation, it is effective and I get lots of exercise. 

The Serbian Slava. When you're invited once, you're expected to show up every year. I still have to write a blog post about the Slava that I went to. A Slava is "The Saints Day." Every Orthodox family has a specific family Saint, and on that Saint's day, the family throws a big party and invites everyone! Once you come once, you are invited to come every year there after.

I know there are more things that I can write here, but I'll have to keep thinking! 

Have a wonderful July! I will be traveling for the entire month, so the blog will be a little sleepy! Please feel free to ask questions and comment! I started moderating comments because I am not really interested in some of the negative, political comments I have had posted. I will only post constructive comments to our blog. :)

Thanks for reading!


24.5.12

Zvonko Bogdan Vineyard

Zvonko Bogdan Vineyard Palic, Serbia.
As you may have figured out, I LOVE WINE, and I find vineyards astonishingly romantic and almost heavenly. The process of planting and pruning the vines, and the time that goes into blending and creating that perfect cuvee; I just love all of it because it speaks of intentionality and purpose. I am also from Oregon's wine country, so maybe that has something to do with my mini wine obsession. I occasionally remind Hubby that he needs to make lots and LOTS of money so that we can retire early, buy a villa (with a vineyard) in Tuscany and grow old making wine and entertaining guests. He always gives me a silly little smirk and says, "well, honey, looks like you're going to have to find one super-duper-high-paying-job to make that all happen! I'm never going to make THAT much money!" I just laugh it off - and he thinks I'm joking - but I am really not joking at all. Ohhhh to be a dreamer, married to the ultimate realist! 

So, I am holding onto my dream, and perhaps one day, I will find a "super-duper-high-paying-job" and finally get that Tuscan villa. In the meantime, I satisfy my cravings by visiting other people's vineyards! While Subotica, Serbia claims to have a "wine route," I have struggled to find many well established stops along that supposed "route." Of course Dibonis Winery is close by and it's fabulous (read about the grape harvest at Dibonis), but I think the staff may be getting sick of entertaining me! I figured it was time to discover a new place and the one on my radar was Zvonko Bogdan Vineyard on Lake Palic, Serbia. 

This is Zvonko Bogdan - a famous Serbian folk singer who lives in Subotica. 
Zvonko Bogdan? What's with the name? I asked the same thing and was met with looks of astonishment from my Serbian friends, "you don't know who ZVONKO BOGDAN is?! He's only like the most famous Serbian folk singer, and he lives in Subotica! He might even be your neighbor." Ops. I quickly looked the local celebrity up on Wikipedia and YouTube and raced out to the vineyard that is his namesake. Sadly I was greeted with construction trucks and boarded up windows and doors. I dejectedly turned my car around and drove home. Boo.

Several months after my first failed attempt, I contacted the marketing and PR manager for Zvonko Bogdan vineyard. She assured me that I could come out for a wine tour and tasting even though the vineyard wasn't exactly finished. I jumped at the opportunity and headed out for that tour and tasting. 

The vineyard is owned by three jolly gentlemen (Mr. Bogdan being one of them), and they have been producing wine for a few years enlisting the expertise of a renowned German wine maker. The completed facility will include a hotel and fancy-pants restaurant which are both largely unfinished. My tour guide showed me only the parts that were completed. The well polished (and expensive) barrels and fermenters have only been used once, and since it's not yet the season for the second harvest, things were really quiet. Give it a few months, and I am sure this place will be a buzz of activity. 


Fancy fermenters polished and quietly waiting for the next harvest. 
The well designed tasting room looks out into the barrel room. 
Wine of display at Zvonko Bogdan Vineyard. 
Usually guests aren't allowed in this climate controlled barrel room - but I'm just lucky I guess!

A merlot and two great cuvees for tasting. 
Zvonko Bogdan's Cuvee No. 1 was my favorite and of course the most expensive! 
I am looking forward to getting back out to Zvonko Bogdan Vineyard once it's finished. I didn't get a projected completion date, but let's just hope it's soon. I only have two more years in Serbia! 


As always, thanks for reading, following and commenting! It's always great to hear from family, friends, travelers, and fellow bloggers!

22.5.12

HOLY SHEEP!

Note from Lana - This "situation" happened several months ago, but Chris has not had too much time to write. Please enjoy his much anticipated "Holy Sheep" story. It is long, but you will get sucked into his deep, thought provoking writing style. 

PROLOGUE
In this episode, a question that haunted Charles Darwin: if natural selection boils down to survival of the fittest, how do you explain why one creature might stick its neck out for another?  The standard view of evolution is that living things are shaped by cold-hearted competition, and there is no doubt that today's plants and animals carry the genetic legacy of ancestors who fought fiercely to survive and reproduce. But in this hour, we wonder whether there might also be logic behind sharing, niceness, kindness ... or even, self-sacrifice. Is altruism an aberration, or just an elaborate guise for sneaky self-interest? Do we really live in a selfish, dog-eat-dog world? Or has evolution carved out a hidden code that rewards genuine cooperation?”

HOLY SHEEP!
(a.k.a THE COMMUTE PT.2)
No sooner was the question asked, that the screech of tires and the subsequent thud followed.  The podcast “The Good Show” led by Jad Abumrad and Robert Kruwlich of WNYC’s Radiolab abruptly concluded with only the introduction having graced my ears, and its medium, my iPad, lying atop the floorboard beneath the passenger seat, headphones murmuring, and the story continuing.  For me, a new, more personal story was being written, one not too different than the one that haunted Charles Darwin, one that is instead hauntingly similar.

When I returned to my car after the day’s work, darkness had already descended; and with it, an eerie fog.  Unlike the billowy fog experienced in the morning commute, this night fog was whispery, seeming to hang loosely like a spider’s old web; and the mellow yellow glow from the moon caught trapped within it.  Winter was coming to Serbia, and with her cold breath, silence fell over the nightscape.  Consequently, the bellow of the diesel engine seemed disproportionately harsh amidst this cool stillness.  I readied my iPad with a podcast, fit the headphones into my ears, and pressed PLAY.

“In this episode…” As I drove through the town of Senta, the moon-illuminated fog had begun to descend lower to the ground, and slithered through alleyways and around trees like some golden serpent; its hazy tentacles licking the surface of my car when I passed through.  “… shaped by cold-hearted competition.”   I had seen no other car, nor hitchhiker, even after I exited the city limits.  Senta, now in my rear-view, offered interruption for the imposing fog, its network of buildings diffusing its power.  Up ahead, however, only flatness.  No low-lying hills, no buildings, not even a car.  The fog evolved from the loosely flowing web to a firmly interlaced fabric, blanketing this new landscape of uniformity.  “…or even, self-sacrifice.”  The moon was now imprisoned by the fog, its light shared by no one.  Black.  Everywhere black.  No street lamps.  No city lights.  No stars.  No moon.  I switched from my low beams to high.  The impenetrable fog belligerently repelled the light back into my eyes.  I quickly undid the action.  Consequently, I lowered my speed as well, and leaned forward, focusing hard on the challenge ahead.  It was then I saw what appeared to be blurry man, or a ghost amidst this backdrop of gray and black.  It was waving its arms overhead, signaling me.  I slowed further.  “Do we really live in a dog-eat-…”  HOLY SHEEP! " . . . world." 


By the time I saw them, it was too late.  If there was one camouflage perfect to conceal a flock of two hundred sheep, it would be this densely woven blanket of fog that I now just broke through.  Researchers say that, in intense situations like this, time doesn’t actually slow, but instead people perceive time to slow because their senses are heightened, and thus we record more information.  After the fact, when we play it back, it seems unfeasible to capture so much information in matter of seconds.  Such is the case here.

The sea of sheep flowed perpendicular to the road and crossed it.  On one end stood the ghostly shepherd, helpless to save the followers he had led into perceived annihilation.  I swerved to the left, into the other lane.  The flock not only swallowed the road, but the shoulders and land on either side as well.  My evasive action was futile.  I locked eyes with them as their eyes locked on the booming headlights.  The hot white beam illuminated their hollow eyes, reflecting back four hundred suspended eerie yellow celestial spheres in an ocean of black, stars burning bright before a collective supernova.


In the final millisecond, the sheep blotted out my headlights, creating a very brief spell of absolute darkness, followed by the deafening thuds.  The car bounced left, right, up and down as it reacted to the several impacts, and then creaked to a stop amidst a symphony of “baa baas.”  Upon collision, the car was moving at a much slower speed, but the bumper still exploded into a shower of splintered plastic.  Debris peppered the herd, their bulky wool coats acting as armor.  Other pieces lay scattered amidst the road, my license plate included.

I sat in a state of shock, my brain unable to process the events, unable to act until I saw the shepherd approach my passenger window.  He was signaling me to back up.  Of course!  While the front half of my car did respond violently to the impact, I had not felt the rear tires react to the sheep beneath my car, so they must remain there.  Slowly moving in reverse, surprisingly, three sheep staggered upon shaky legs and stumbled to the field adjacent the road.  One final sheep needed assistance, his rear leg bloodied.  The shepherd helped him upright, and on his other three legs, he too limped to the safety of the road’s shoulder.  I followed suit, and moved my car off the road and into the company of the shepherd and his bruised and battered followers.

Wary of the predicament now a reality for me, I left the car running.  The rhythm of the engine seemed to mimic that of the adrenaline pumping through my veins.  I rolled down my driver-side window when the shepherd approached.  In Serbian, he angrily asked why I was unable to see the flock.  It is obvious, isn’t it?  This shepherd attempts to lead a couple hundred sheep across a highway in complete darkness, blanketed by a dense fog, alone and without any warning signs.  This man, or his sheep for that matter, wore no reflective vests, no flashlight in hand, or headlamp atop head. 

I replied, in Serbian, “Sorry, I don’t understand the Serbian language.”  On the contrary, I did understand pieces, those in context, just not the whole picture.  I wanted him to know I would not be able to discuss the present matter using his native tongue.  The shepherd, puzzled, responded again in Serbian for he knew nothing else, “You don’t understand?”  “No,” I replied.  He then appeared even more frustrated and raised his voice further.  He had realized that he could not communicate with me, and nor could I communicate with him.  Incoherent loud noises seemed to be his solution to this problem.  It appeared, at this point, he wanted me to turn off the car, and get out.  “Eh, I don’t think so,” I mumbled to myself.  The shepherd’s composure was rapidly declining so I figured I better hold tight.  Then, I saw it; the side mirror showed my license plate lying atop a collage of bumper shards and mutilated wool in the road.  Certainly, I was worried about the shepherd’s lack of calm, but I couldn’t leave without the license plate.  So I turned off the car, stepped out into the lion’s den. 

With my back to the idle shepherd, I walked to the center of the road where the plate rested.  The fog had settled in deeper, hugging the road, silencing the night.  Even the sheep, minutes after the accident, lay quiet, perhaps observing in full earnest the man perceived responsible for their misery.  Their black eyes penetrated deep and a chill set it.  I reached down and picked up the plate, and its abrasive scarred edge cut my finger.  As the red blood formed at the surface of the wound, so did the shepherd from the shadows wielding a wooden staff above his head.  The shepherd carried the stick heavy, his body not in the form it may have been many years ago.  The enraged passion in his face, however, showed young and vibrant.  He swung the staff at me, but it fell short as I retreated backwards.  I recalled the sharp edge of the license plate, my eyes instinctively drawn to his exposed neck.  I hesitated.  “…survival of the fittest...cold-hearted competition…self-interest…or genuine cooperation…kindness.”  In my indecision, the unraveled shepherd seized the moment, grabbed my jacket, and began punching deep into my chest.  The blows connected softly contributing no pain.  Perhaps it was the layers of clothing, or the now child-like strength of the aging man, or the fight-or-flight adrenaline the burned inside me, but I only felt anger and no pain.  I grabbed his arm to remove it from me, and his eyes widened.   In them, I saw a mad man, a wildling, a man more animal than the ones he leads.  His next bark was louder, his next swing more deranged, his bite more rabid.  I stopped him once more, stepped back, looked again deep into those feral eyes, and yelled, “STOP!” 

Tonight, the survival of the fittest would not be measured by physical strength, but intellect and logic, for I am not only interested in surviving this night, but the days to come.  If I countered the shepherd’s attacks with those of my own, then the story would no longer read of a car accident with animals, but instead an American assaulting an old and feeble Serbian man in the dark at his home.  Surely, even a simple shove to provide me the opportunity to escape would result in a full-blown fictional story of battery, my mug on every local Serbian newspaper.  I suppose sometimes both self-interest and genuine cooperation work together to ensure survival.  The decision was made; I did not have another choice.  I could not fight back, but instead, I had to award his attacks with kindness and cooperation. 

The word “stop” is universal in both Serbian and English, and its meaning was clearly received by the shepherd.  As a result, he momentarily stopped his attacks, but still held the staff above his head, his face unchanged.  I exited the highway, once more towards the shoulder, and stood about a few meters from my car.  The shepherd followed me, yelling something more in Serbian.  I caught one word in particular from his perceived ramblings, and replied, “Yes, police,” in Serbian.  I was not certain a police presence would benefit this situation, since most do not speak English, but perhaps with the shepherd pacified, I would have opportunity to call upon a colleague to come and translate for me.  I expected the shepherd himself to call the police, but he did not do so.  Instead, he grabbed me by the arm and attempted to force me towards the residence that sat thirty meters or so from the road.  In these conditions, the house appeared derelict, the ghostly fog whispering an uneasy welcome.  I resisted and pulled my arm again from his grasp, which brought his staff down upon me once more.  I easily evaded, and irritatingly demanded he stop for now the second time.  In Serbian, I told him that I would remain here.  The shepherd, unconvinced, grabbed me yet again and still, I denied his encroachment.  At this point, I figured he carried no cell phone, and needed a stationary phone located in the residence to call the police.  He did not trust I would remain on-site if he left me where I stood.  I, therefore, pulled out my cell phone, and pointed at it.  “What is the number,” I said, obviously regarding the police.  He did not grant me with a response, but instead moved on me again. 

This thought of turning the other cheek only works as long as the attacks are limited to two.  After repeated assaults, I had no other cheek to provide him, and instead my mind began reverting back to violence.  There is a limit to how much I could take, and it was clear the shepherd was not going to be cooperative despite the kindness I allowed him.  I viewed the staff readied above his head, and how it shook unsteadily.  I remembered his failed swings from before, their foolish direction and weak intensity.  I then envisioned I would teach him how to hold the staff, how to swing it with purpose, how to hit its mark.  Having nearly twenty years experience with a baseball bat, I would need only one swing.  My eyes moved from the wooden staff to his head, focused on his temple lightly covered by some unkempt hair.  Grab the staff, and swing.  One and done.  I go home.

Then, as if from some divine providence, my cut finger throbbed, and the license plate in my hand became palpable again, diverting my thoughts away from the violent.  All of this, his aggressive behavior, the attacks, the intensity in his eyes that I mistook for blood lust was instead only that of fear.  He, too, was fighting to survive.  Without the license plate, what proof would he have that the sheep were hit by a car.  He was only a scared shepherd, a small pawn on this massive farm.  He feared the owner, he feared for his job, for his family.  I gave him the license plate.

The shepherd’s stick lowered, and he readily received it.  I, then, pushed a button on my Blackberry, illuminating the back light, and pretended to call someone, or as the shepherd presumed, the police.  Seemingly content with this course of action, he turned his back to me and began to walk towards the injured sheep.  I held the phone to my ear and mumbled into the receiver; the words even more unintelligible the further he distanced himself from me.  I contemplated actually calling a colleague of mine for help, but despite the brief respite, I was worried there would not be another chance to leave without further violence. 

He stood over the injured sheep, their baa baas acting as the reassurance he needed.  Everything was going to be alright, he presumably thought.  His guard was down.  My eyes remained fixed on him as I slid the phone back into my pocket and calculated my next move.  He was probably ten steps from me, and I ten steps from the car.  If I run, I could be in the car before he notices, and pulling away before he could act.  I imagined it was possible he could be at the car before it started moving, but not in enough time to prevent escape.  Ok.  Ready…set…oh no!  I paused as his head turned around to focus on me again, but only long enough for him to realize what was about to happen.  I sprinted hard for the driver side door, opened it, and leaped in.  The shepherd was in pursuit, with approximately eight steps until he reached the car.  Keys into the ignition, six steps.  Turnover of the engine, three steps.  Stupid diesel.  Car into gear, 1 step.  As I slammed on the accelerator, I felt him on the back of the car, banging feverishly.  The car jumped into motion, surely spewing dirt and grass behind.  The shepherd desperately pursued the escaping car on foot, before giving up and heaving his wooden staff at me.  Finally, it made contact, but with the rear window, and then fell back to the road, clamoring wood to concrete until it went still.  In the rear view was the shepherd, a blurred ghost caught in a whispery grey web of angst and despair, his shouts fading with each accelerated second.  Moments later, he was gone, consumed by the darkness he surfaced from a half hour before, and with him a story to tell, and a license plate as proof.

EPILOGUE
On the drive home, I sat at first in silence, only the repetitive hum of my wrecked bumper dragging atop concrete acting as soundtrack to my thoughts of reflection.  My breathing remained heavy, but the sense of escape did wonders to streamline my anxiety.   I then called a colleague, and informed her of the incident and the loss of the license plate.  We made plans to go with the company’s lawyers to the police station the next morning, file a report, and retrieve the plate.  

When I arrived home, Lana greeted me with a new painting she had just finished.  My apprehension still had the best of me, and I failed to show interest in her accomplishment.  She noticed, and I began to tell her of my distressing commute home.  Her reaction was, well, not what I expected.  After sharing that I had run into several sheep with my car, she fell into a fit of laughter, but was followed up by deep concern as the story continued.  In future retellings, I have had similar responses, and perhaps you the reader now can relate as well.  In truth, I can’t deny it.  It is a comedy up until the time the shepherd entered the scene.  Then, it becomes a tragedy, starring me as I struggled to answer Darwin’s question first hand.  Instinctively, my initial thoughts spoke to fighting fire with fire, to survive by physically out besting my opponent; but to what end.  I was the fittest this evening, but I accomplished it without physical presence, but instead by showing kindness, desperately seeking cooperation; a better end, and therefore proving the standard view of evolution as too narrow.  In the end, the shepherd kept his job, the sheep survived, and I was returned my license plate.  Without doubt, there a code that rewards genuine cooperation and kindness.  In Serbian, the code reads, “Љубав побеђује” (Love Wins).

The END!
(Another note from Lana) Want to read more from Chris? Check out The Commute, and stay tuned for stories from our four-months in Namibia, Africa. 







18.5.12

Homemade Serbian Food

Stunning spring colors. 

There are so many wonderful travel blogs out there! The web is full of young professionals and dreamers who have left their corporate jobs to traverse the world. They backpack through the Amazon, lounge in Thai hammocks, eat their way through Italy, couchsurf all around Europe, snap pictures of Moroccan snake charmers and snowboard the Swiss Alps. I never in a million years dreamed that I would have time to sit down and actually read one post from a travel blog, but then again, I never really expected to quit my job and move to Serbia.

Then I even started my own "travel" blog - yet another personal shocker!

My birthday boy (Chris) and Marko and some homemade rakija. 
While the life of a worry-free-jobless-traveling-nomad sounds adventurous and exciting, I don’t wish to change our situation at all. We’re still traveling, but we’re doing it a little differently with a company that values my husband and has trusted him with an expat move. While we will see a lot of the world during our three-year contract, we will also have a good understanding of a new culture. There is something very special about truly feeling the heart beat of another country; it completely changes your world-view and you will never be the same again. So far, we’ve learned a bit about Serbia’s history, made a lot of Serbian and Serb-Hungarian friends, participated in a Serbian parade, gone to concerts, learned to spot region specific architecture, been invited to birthday parties, celebrated Orthodox New Year and Easter, tried a lot of rakijas, and just the other day we were invited to the country to meet Marko’s family.

Marko's family owns a goat and several pigs and they simply live off the land.
Lot's of little piglets! They're just so cute when they're little. 
A homemade grill (old washing machine parts) and pork from the farm. Hmmmm . . organic food!
Marko's father was such a wonderful host!
There is something very special about meeting family – about being invited to share an evening of stories and laughter and home cooked food. Marko’s mother and father live 45 minutes away from Subotica in the village of Lovcenac. Marko’s parents own a small plot of land with a garden, tool shed and a few animals. There they built a small house (now used for storage) that they lived in as they slowly built the larger family home where they raised their two sons. Today they live alone -occasionally babysitting the grand baby and entertaining when their kids come to visit. 

Marko’s father was an international truck driver during Yugoslavia's glory days. He has since retired, but he sure loves to tell great stories. In a husky, Serbian-Godfather-like voice he recalled his many trips through Europe, the Middle East, and Ukraine. He emphasized his treks through Ukraine because Marko had mentioned that my family has roots there. He looked at my little round Ukrainian face, beat his chest and proclaimed, “You see Lana (and Chris), we are all like family. You belong to us. You belong to us. . . to Serbia."

I was truly touched. That is something you don't hear if you're just passing through Serbia with a guide book and a few hours to check out a restaurant and sling back a shot of rakija or two. To truly feeling like you belong takes time and investment in a culture. 

Sitting across the table from the man of the house makes you realize that regardless of cultural, political and language differences, deep down, we truly are all the same. We are all people and we all belong. Every good father loves his family and ultimately wants to provide the best for them. Watching Marko’s parents interact with their little grandson, with their son Marko, and with two complete strangers, made me think of my own mother and father. It was Chris’ birthday and it was a special time for us to experience another facet of Serbian culture. 

Marko's sweet little nephew. 
This is their only grandchild and they just love him to pieces. 
What a wonderful homemade-Serbian-birthday meal! 
Thank you (hvala vam) for inviting us into your home and treating us like family. 
Thank you for making us feel like we "belong." 

15.5.12

Graffiti Be Gone?

Just a little note to our readers: We try to stray away from political topics on our blog because:

1) This is our story - not a local politicians campaign blog.
2) We know that the Balkan history is sorted and painful resulting in a lot of political unrest. 
3) Everyone has their own opinion(s) when it comes to politics.
4) We really are not interested in offending anyone or even starting a discussion on the matter.
5) Ohhh yeah, and we can't understand Serbian well enough to follow what's going on in politics. 
Former New York Mayor Rudy Giuliani.
All of that, and now I am going to briefly talk about something that may be considered "political." Last week, former New York Mayor Rudy Giuliani was in Belgrade, Serbia, and once he left, the image of Subotica started improving just a bit. Coincidence? Perhaps. But maybe, just maybe, one former politician had the words and suggestions to bring about positive change for another country. Serbians may not believe that he has any right to speak to them about improvement for their country, but he does have a proven track record in America. That's just my opinion.

As most know, Giuliani stands out as one of America's most memorable (former) Mayor's for his response and dedication to console and cleanup after the September 911 attacks. He also cleaned up the image of New York prior to those attacks by attempting to eradicate graffiti in the sprawling metropolis. He saw graffiti as a symptom of urban decay and he put actions behind his words. 

Now days, Giuliani has his own consulting company (along with several other personal businesses) and while he says he visited Belgrade on "personal business" and was not paid by any political party, some in Serbia have their own suspicions and ideas. It is campaign season in Serbia. 
Former Mayor Rudy Giuliani in Belgrade, Serbia.
These are the posts in the center of Subotica, Serbia - covered in layers of Graffiti. 

When we first moved to Subotica, I was shocked by the graffiti that covers almost every building. Walls and windows are vandalized with gang tags, political bashing, hateful phrases, and a whole lot of words that I (luckily) cannot understand. From the outside, even our apartment building looked like a ghetto, but once inside the cozy, remodeled flat, you forget how derelict the exterior appears. I secretly wanted to take a bucket of paint and a brush and freshen things up a bit. . . 

New paint!!
. . . . But as soon as former Mayor Giuliani left Serbia, this guy (above) showed up and gave our building a fresh coat of paint. It's amazing how much better the center of the city looks now. I have no idea if Mayor Giuliani's presence in Serbia and his stories of New York improvement had any impact on Subotica painting over some of Her graffiti. Maybe there is no connection, but regardless, any improvement is good improvement.